where you need to eat right now

Most eagerly awaited opening this year; Ernst is finally here! Canadian twentysomething chefs Dylan Watson-Brawn and Spencer Christenson, are mixing a fetishist focus on the best available produce from small-scale farmers, with the ideas of Japanese cooking. At 17, Dylan Watson was the first non-native chef ever trained at Tokyo’s RyuGin, since then his eye for detail is as remarkable as his knife skills. At Ernst (meaning “earnest” in German) a piece of forced rhubarb poached in kombu dashi is served with its poaching liquid and some raw rhubarb shavings, it’s as deceptively simple as it’s satisfying. A fresh trout from the river Havel, killed Ike-Jime style then aged for three days is poetically flavourful and densely delicious. Mangalitza pig from an Austrian artisan farm is another rare delicacy that also gets careful treatment by these boys. True Berlin-style, this is actually a resto in a home, with a table for six, set in Dylan Watson’s apartment. An Ikea kitchen fitted with a Japanese binchotan grill is where all the magic happens, the 20+ courses for dinner is the hottest ticket in town, even if it’s in the run-down but up-coming district of Wedding. Future of Berlin cooking? We certainly think so.