where you need to eat right now

Hedone is becoming such a foodie mainstay in London that it is producing its very own disciples. All versed in the obsessive attention to produce and seasonality that made chef Mikael Jonsson's name. So it’s only right that Hedone’s replacement on our London list is one of those disciples. Tom Kemble is producing dishes at Bonhams that are so clever, so intricate that London’s most famous auction house seems the only place for them. Which is odd, because the room itself is nondescript, tucked away at the back of the building, where art buyers and wealthy clients whisper discreetly and old masters observe just as quietly. The real mastery is in the food. The 7-course tasting menu is essential and, at £70 is the best value degustation we’ve encountered. Kemble’s range is astonishing. The way he plays with textures (particularly on a show-stopping dish of Devon crab and bone marrow royale) would make his own master Johnsson proud. The wine list is selected from the auction house’s own reserves. There is value to be had here too and plenty of options should you wish to match the quality of the food with a grandstand choice. Go for lunch rather than dinner and make sure you give 48 hours notice for the tasting menu.