where you need to eat right now

Every so often, a restaurant comes about in London that sits right at the intersection of innovative cooking, seasonality, trends and deliciousness. The past two that we can think of have been opened by Tomos Parry. Where beef was the star of the show at Kitty Fisher (12 year old Galician cows, cooked over fire and served rare in their own juices), turbot is the go-to here. Turbot served in the style made famous by Elkano in San Sebastián and others that follow in its glorious wake. Where every piece is edible, the skin blistered but still supple, releasing a salty-savoury, gelatinous juice that Tomos himself will tell you to spoon over the meat as you play mother and portion up for the table. The famous beef is still on the menu, so go as a party of 4+ and have both. But don’t make the mistake of ignoring the clever, stunning seasonal small plates on the rest of the menu. Cod’s roe is everywhere, but not quite like this. Tomatoes are Sicilian and served with just enough bright green olive oil and salt to make your mouth water. Brat’s egg salad will change what you thought an egg salad was. And by the time you go there will doubtless be different dishes added, just like in Donostia, according to what’s good and what’s in season. Booking advised but only by email, answered by a lovely man called Stuart, who will take care of you from there.