At Riverbend, Chef Jason Goodenough has opened a bistro in a comfortable uptown cottage. My husband and I ate at the counter, where we watched our food - and everyone’s food - being prepared with consistency and care: Chef’s eponymous Oysters Goodenough (Too modest!) atop smokehouse bacon, creamed leeks and sauce Bearnaise; the mercifully breadless (shell-less) crabcake with scallop mousse, orange braised fennel and sauce Maltaise; pan roasted sea scallops with pad thai and Thai coconut - yellow curry emulsion; slow roasted pork belly, fried rice, baby bok choi, farm egg and hoisin; and the head-turning whole roasted fish with root vegetables. What we saw but didn’t order, we will go back and try for ourselves. What we ate, we enjoyed completely, right through a shared dessert: pot au crème with crispy beignets stippled with powdered sugar.