You pull up a chair, order your drinks, then serve yourself from buffet tables covered in white linen: fried chicken, smoky mustard greens, red beans and rice, shrimp Clemenceau, jambalaya, bread pudding. This historic “Creole with soul” restaurant is overseen by New Orleans’ national treasure, Leah Chase, who just turned ninety. During the 60s, Dooky’s was a place where blacks could eat with whites, and Mrs. Chase served bowls of gumbo des herbes to civil rights heroes like James Baldwin, Thurgood Marshall, Andrew Young and Oretha Castle Haley. The walls are filled with the work of African American artists, many of whom traded art for Mrs. Chase’s delicious home cooking and her warm company. On the website, you’ll hear the jazzy, lovely voice of Mrs. Chase’s daughter, named for her mama.