Be prepared to wait in line on Bourbon Street with a Sazerac or a gin fizz in hand. Once inside, begin with a plate of weightless soufflé potatoes you dip in béarnaise sauce, then share classic New Orleans appetizers, like crabmeat Maison, oysters en brochette, oysters Rockefeller, fried eggplant sticks (sprinkled with powdered sugar), and sinus-clearing shrimp remoulade. Your tuxedoed waiter will offer menus, or, better yet, his opinion on the pompano vs. the trout. Meuniere? Amandine? Topped with crabmeat? All of the above? The vibrant dining room downstairs is lined with mirrors, so you can check yourself and your fellow diners out. This is not the place to dine if you are having an affair. But it is the place to go if you want classic New Orleans cuisine and handsomely portioned cocktails.