Korea has its own town in New York, and you can't overstate the influence it has had on the city's food culture. With Atomix, it finally gets the reverently refined restaurant it deserves. The Seoul import Jungsik can make a glass of water complicated, and Momofuku Ko a glass of water confusing, but Atomix is simple to understand and love, local produce, embracing international influence with a sharp Korean intellect. The snack with tofu cream, beef floss, and Osetra caviar embodies the vision in a bite perfectly. It knows exactly what it's trying to achieve, a complete dining experience that expresses the owners Junghyun and Ellia's identity, shaped by their heritage, present and vision of the future: metropolitan cooking.