Fast food is bad, but food served fast is great, and America in particular needs serious chefs to take it seriously, not just lend their names to it. David Chang's last attempt at his own Shake Shack, a respected fast food joint that can make him a multi-multi-millionaire was Fuku+, a shot at Chick-fil-A that missed. Now he returns with Bāng Bar, making a bet on kebabs (with his trademark twists), the best 2am food in the world. Chang makes it a fantastic 2pm food. Fast food you can actually bring back to eat al desko. Spit roasted chicken and pork, and in the mornings, mortadella, all served in made to order flatbreads. But the insane lines makes you wonder, how is it intended to scale? You can only have so many spits, and make so many pieces of bread by hand in hole-in-the-wall spots it seems they will try to occupy. Maybe the multi-millions will have to wait, but the food is worth lining up for at the moment.