There are 1838 Italian restaurants in New York City, that's more than in Naples, Italy. Whoever sends their business plan to the bank arguing that surely an 1839th is desperately needed, either deserves the money for their self-harming naivety, or because they must be fucking spectacular at cooking. The people at Don Angie are the latter. This is actually an Italian restaurant that New York needs. It's inspired by the city's own 'red sauce' cultivation of the European cuisine rather than Italy itself, which means it makes sense to eat it in New York, not in actual Italy. It has added great personality, but not too much of it. This is an hommage, not an adaptation. But the single biggest feat, is that it's rich but still light food. It's something as unusual as a TKO in a country where you want the boxers to be swaying after round 2. The delightful chrysanthemum salad has cheese, but it isn't a cheeseboard. The veal 'da Pepi' is breaded, but with rye, not refined white flour. The caramelle pasta filled with buffalo milk, not mozzarella. This is a weirdly needed Italian restaurant that will hopefully set a few new benchmarks.