King is run by three queens, Clare and Jess, who spent ten years at River Café in London, and Annie who runs the front of house after a career in finance. When they wanted to fry their sage leaves elsewhere, they knew they had to move cities to escape inevitable comparisons with their previous employers. It's a small menu, changing errrry day, that brings the simplest and most refined of Italy with inspiration from Provence to plates on beautiful white tablecloths. They treat legumes like caviar, bottarga like truffle, and olive oil like mature Barolo to create luxury from almost nothing. The style of cooking is unique in New York who prefers their Italian restaurants more like D&G knockoffs than Florence tailoring, but it has quickly become an institution, filled from lunch to midnight, delicious from the salumi start to the semifreddo ending.