where you need to eat right now
Aux Deux Amis

This humble little address on touristic rue Oberkampf plays host to one of earliest incarnations of that now oh-so internationally recognisable epithet “natural wine bar”. And eating something with your wine is very much “de rigeur” in France. All plates are small assiettes, filled to the rim with whatever combinations the chef fancies, fresh from the market that very day. And at equally small prices. Raw bonito tuna with cucumbers, or faux-filet cooked saignant with an anchovies sauce, or ricotta and aubergines, that sort of thing. Expect also pure product bar snacks like mozza, iberico ham, pequillos and cheeses. You will come here early randomly imagining hey look there are plenty of empty tables to choose from, until you realize there are little reservation notes on each and every single one of them. So book at least the day before if you want a full dinner, and that is firmly encouraged, or shoulder yourself in by the tiny brass bar and meet some of the quite charming local alcoholic hipsters. Or try to be a regular guest, and get exactly the table you want, whenever you want. Aux Deux Amis is not a rehab, quite far from it, and the cellar is fully stocked with natural wines of the cheap and jolly kind. Open all summer.