The boisterous David Benichou has served wine and rumbled around with guests in all the right restos in Paris in the past few years. He has now dared to venture out into the deep end of the pool, by opening his own little paradise of a wine bar. It’s small, it’s long, but it’s proud. And be lucky to meet his dog that follows him around everyone. Or perhaps it’s him following his dog around, either way they’re inseparable. Expect a clean space full of fine and fun dirty wines, and if you go late enough you will rub shoulders with chefs and sommeliers coming off and getting on from their shifts. Fancy a bite at the bar? All the usual suspects, from the top of the food pyramid: paté, charcuteries, bread, cheese, boudin and of course the ubiquitous gin tonics.