As Charles Bukowski is staring you down from a poster on the barren wall, and as The Smiths are jangling their moaning guitars across the crowded room, you are wearing surgical plastic gloves and digging into some japanese style fried chicken wings, wondering how the hell everyone around you found out about this particular joint so fast. It’s loud and it’s clear, full of tension and fear; fashion and food people all around. An expertly light and fluffy jar-cooked omelette with sea urchins is the iconic center of attention. As is feeling of having found that hidden gem nobody else has, due to booking are only taken via sms (+33626411066) and that they serve bonito head with smoked beef fat and spring onions. Starters around €9-€14 and mains to share about the double. From the people behind so-hip-it-hurts coffee bar Boot Café a few blocks away, also in Le Marais.