where you need to eat right now

Chef Baptiste Day has a bone hard background from some of the very best kitchens in Paris (ex- Astrance, Arpège, Ambroisie and Le Servan) and instead of opening an ambitious fine dining resto and chase the old stars, he has turned into bistronomy. Not exactly the sharp cooking you would expect if you understand his background, but still focused and quite inventive. And on a á la carte price level that won’t scare you off. Start with oysters gently spiced with pimentos, covered with grated carrots and crushed peanuts; quite an exciting mouthful. Continue with a whole perfectly rosé-roasted pigeon paired with the tiniest beetroots and an unusual coffee-flavoured plum paste. The devil is in the details, and with the right kind of love and tender care this place might grow into something extraordinary. One to watch, go before everyone else does.