where you need to eat right now

Fresh from the box, this brand new Marais space has just opened its doors and it looks very promising indeed. Wood, mirrors, leather, brass and lots and lots of friendly staff in aprons wishing you a great evening. The wine list is short and poor, probably due to resto being in its infancy, but the cocktails are bold and brash and plentiful. The food is all centered around charcoal grilling, which perfumes you immediately as you walk through the door. This stone-age but nowadays high-tech cooking is supervised by talented young Swedish chef David Kjellstenius. Medium-sized dishes of finest seasonal veggies, creatively presented, is the main focus on the menu. However the larger plates intended for sharing is the real culinary high point, with the likes of a whole trout surrounded by flowers and herbs, or the 550 gram entrecôte served with the finest potatoes France can muster, from Ile de Ré. Flavours are strong and uncompromising, perhaps with a much more international profile than the traditional french way of cooking, expect some great surprises in the details. Excellent coffee program too, which is sadly so rare and still overlooked in Paris that it commands a special mention.