where you need to eat right now

Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccanelli serve soulful interpretations of south central Italian classics at the long communal table at their neo-trattoria in Rome’s eastern periphery. Mazzo’s distance from the center, as well as Barreca and Baccanelli’s penchant for experimentation, means the menu departs a bit from local traditions to create new classics like fried tripe, sweetbread bruschetta, oxtail terrine. In each case, an ingredient or technique of Roman or southern cuisine is reinterpreted slightly and deliberately, without veering into excessively modern or precious territory. As a result, Mazzo manages to remain both surprising and firmly grounded in the flavors and traditions of Rome and its environs.