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Florilege

Florilege seduces you with its contemporary Japanese interior, dramatic ikebana floral arrangements that adorn the open kitchen, and nicely edited wine list. All of this jibes with Hiroyasu Kawate’s stunning take on French cuisine rooted in the traditions of Japan — an idea that sounds like a contradiction but makes perfect sense on the plate. The chef likes to play with texture, temperature, and expectations. There’s soft-shell turtle two ways — deep-fried and also simmered until tender — atop a silky chawanmushi egg flan in clam broth. Wagyu carpaccio is bathed in a consomme made from vegetable trimmings and paired with apple granita. Kawate pulls it off with flair.