where you need to eat right now

With all due respect to Jiro and Saito, Sugita may be the best sushi restaurant in Tokyo. Why? It’s all about the balance. Takaaki Sugita has a Zen master’s understanding of harmony, and it shows — in the way he blends vinegars for his shari and the technique he applies to each piece of fish. Sugita’s is a subtle art that builds on edomae sushi traditions from a modern perspective. Kinmedai aburiyaki (seared golden-eye snapper) may not be a part of the traditional sushi repertoire, but it is ridiculously good. Ditto for the cured ankimo and razor clams marinated in sweet miso.