With all due respect to Jiro and Saito, Sugita may be the best sushi restaurant in Tokyo. Why? It’s all about the balance. Takaaki Sugita has a Zen master’s understanding of harmony, and it shows — in the way he blends vinegars for his shari and the technique he applies to each piece of fish. Sugita’s is a subtle art that builds on edomae sushi traditions from a modern perspective. Kinmedai aburiyaki (seared golden-eye snapper) may not be a part of the traditional sushi repertoire, but it is ridiculously good. Ditto for the cured ankimo and razor clams marinated in sweet miso.